Paint is a less expensive option for pool finishes. Epoxy Paint is the better option when considering the design parameters of an outdoor leisure pool constructed in a climate that requires that the pool be winterized or if the owner wants to leave the pool empty in the winter months.
There are several different types of pool paints available from many sources including discount and chain hardware and paint outlets.
Counsilman-Hunsaker would only accept the use of a high tech engineered epoxy coating.
The expected life cycle of an epoxy painted pool finish should be 1 – 3 years. The Division 13 Swimming Pool Specification states the epoxy paint finishes to have a 1 year warranty.
An epoxy finish can be re-coated with the same type of coating as the original finish with a minimal amount of surface prep.
Epoxy paint will fade with time so re-coat frequency is often an owner driven appearance issue rather than a coatings failure issue.
The CH approach to paint would include a thinned primer coat and two (2) finish coats.
Rubber-based paint (chlorinated) typically last only one year but is less expensive.
CH does not recommend painting indoor pools.
Dark colors (royal blue, dark blue, black, etc.) are not recommended for the entire pool surface. Dark colors tend to fade prematurely with water chemistry and UV rays.
Before noon, all concrete structures, as well as plaster surfaces, are exhaling air (which may contain a varying degree of moisture) as the surface is being warmed up by the sun. If chlorinated rubber-based paint is applied before the concrete is fully warmed up, it may skin over before the air has had a chance to escape (skins form on the surface of the paint before the solvents have had an opportunity to evaporate, trapping the solvents and forming gases which, in expanding, cause bubbles or blisters to appear). Whenever trouble is experienced along these lines, the painting should be deferred until the heat of the day is passed and the concrete is starting to cool off. At this point, the structure is inhaling air and the danger of any blisters developing is at a minimum.
Dried blisters can be scraped off and touched up with thinned paint.
Thin coats of paint should be applied. The thicker the solvent based paint, the more time it takes to evaporate the solvents.
Sharks Grit should be used as a non-slip additive to pool paint. The mixture of paint and Sharks Grit has to be constantly stirred so that the additive doesn’t sink. If the Sharks Grit, or other additive, is sprinkled on the surface, you will not get a consistent finish.
Cast-in-Place Wall – Forms, when removed, leave a smooth surface that will need to be acid washed and thoroughly flushed and rinsed with water hose or power washer to neutralize acid residue.
Pneumatically Applied Concrete Wall – Pneumatically applied concrete, whether shotcrete or gunite, presents a rough and uneven surface, which is not suitable for a final painted interior finish of a pool. To prepare for a smooth coating of paint, the pneumatically applied concrete pool wall must be made smooth. To do this, some pool contractors will trawler the concrete surface during construction. Others will apply (trowel) a brown coat, which is a ½ inch thick ± of plaster consisting of sand and cement. After the brown coat cures, it is the surface upon which the finish coating (epoxy preferred) is applied.
There is a smaller percentage of swimming pool contractors who are able to use a steel trowel and provide a shotcrete finish which provides a much more paintable surface; this would be a preferred method.
Tnemec L69F should be used as the basis of design. The L69F has the ability to be compliant with the low VOC (250 grams/liter) and the super VOC (100 grams/liter. There is a slight difference between the L69 and the L69F with the L69F series having a faster handling and recoat time.
At Rockford Magic Waters, the existing the existing Kiddie pool area required a surface filler after prep work was done to resurface and repaint. After sandblasting the surface, and removing years of existing paint finish, the Kiddie area was left with a rough concrete surface. Because of the large area that needed to be resurfaced, Tnemec suggested using the Series 218 Mortarclad, which provides similar performance, has a longer pot life, and can be top-coated more rapidly than Series 215, which should be used for spot repairs. The kiddie area ended up receiving two coats of Tnemec Series 218 and one coat of the Series 215. Some areas were touched up with a second coat of the 215 and there was a small area that received 4 coats of the 218 and two coats of the 215 to build up a low spot. CH would recommend Tnemec Series 218 for larger areas with Tnemec 215 for smaller areas and as a topcoat for the Tnemec 218.
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